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The River Thames

There is no public access to the northern bank of the river except at one point. At the bottom of Bell Lane, off High Street, is the site of the old wharf, and also the point at which the river was crossed by means of the Tidford ford. This was in use until the bridge nearby was built in 1792. This bridge, which now carries the busy road to Swindon and the South, is called Halfpenny Bridge, this being the amount of the toll levied. From the records it appears that foot tolls were levied until 1839, and tolls on cattle until 1885 or later. The tollhouse still stands on the bridge and forms part of the eastern parapet. The far side of the bridge gives access to a path, which runs, along the southern bank of the river. Turning upstream, the boatyard, from which boats may be hired, can be seen on the opposite bank. A little further upstream is a marina with berths for up to sixty craft. From here a few minutes walk brings one to the point where the river Coln joins the Thames. It was here, also, that the Thames Severn Canal entered the river, standing at that point, is a Round House, built to accommodate lock keepers. This is one of several which still exist along the route of the canal. They generally consist of three rooms built one above the other with a spiral staircase built into a thickened wall on one side that also holds the fireplace and flues. An old 'Donkey Bridge', which linked the Round House with the towpath, has now been replaced with a footbridge across the Thames.

From Halfpenny Bridge the path downstream follows the bank of the river through open fields until St John's Lock is reached. This is the first of the many locks between here and London. To cope with the great volume of river traffic the lock has to be kept in tip-top condition. To ensure this, drainage and the installing of new lock gates took places in 1966, while in 1983 both ends of the lock were built and, again, new gates and seatings were installed. In addition a new waste pumping station was erected. Most recently, a visitors' centre has been opened at the lock containing local information.

Overlooking all the activity taking place in the lock is the recumbent figure of Old Father Thames, carved in stone and looking suspiciously like Neptune. The statue was originally placed in a field at Thames Head on the right hand side of the A433 Tetbury Road, but its isolated position made attention by vandals too easy, so it was moved to St Johns Lock for protection. The bridge over the river here dates from 1229. The original structure was of timber but this was washed away in a severe flood, and so was replaced by the present stone arch later in the 13th century. The monks from the nearby Priory undertook the care of the bridge and the causeways leading to it. Unfortunately, the work was not carried out and the bridge became so broken down and unsafe that in 1342 Edward III made a special grant towards the cost of repairs. Further grants had to be made in 1388 and 1626. In 1725 the Faringdon to Cirencester road was turnpiked and the tolls were collected at St John's Bridge.

An alternative route from the town to the lock can be taken by walking down the churchyard and entering a path through a 'kissing gate' immediately opposite. After passing through two fields the path becomes a causeway that leads to the main road by the bridge. Directly opposite is the Trout Inn. Originally known as St John Baptist Head it was probably a guesthouse for the Priory. It still retains the Priory's mediaeval fishery rights dating back to the reign of King John.

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